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Post by Ron Walker on Jun 13, 2022 15:55:13 GMT -7
Posted by: Ron Walker Apr 23 2020, 05:55 PM QUOTE(Philostopher1 @ Apr 23 2020, 02:27 PM) * I could do that, but I am going for a nice aesthetic appearance. This approach is a lot of work. Since I have the holes to 3rd magnitude pre drilled, it is easier to first glue the little squares over a hole. When I press it down the impression of the hope appears on the foil. Then I take a small ball end allen driver and press a dimple into the hole. In this way the bit, needle or whatever finds the center, or at least near it. I am committed now (and will be committed to an asylum later) to continue. Here is a picture of the finished starballs. They are in the background...
They look really nice. I can't imagine the work your doing with those globes.
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Post by Ron Walker on Jun 13, 2022 15:55:34 GMT -7
Posted by: Philostopher1 Jul 6 2020, 01:17 AM Project Update July 5th
Pinhole challenges
In my last update I had completed applying the cinefoil to the inside of the starballs. I used JB Kwik thinned with acetone to make a very thin film adhesive to bond the foil to the insides. All along I was concerned that it might peel off over time. That concern was unfounded. I had to grind it off with a stainless braided rope brush...
Why? I was still unable to drill through it with .250 mm bits for the 6th magnitude stars. I could drill maybe 8 holes with my new drill guide before breaking a bit and there is over 1200 ! So that didn't work. There was also a problem in that chucking the bit in the Dremel Hand Piece could not be secured true to the rotational center. In addition to this leading to breakage it was also drilling the holes oversized! Very frustrating.
Those reading this should understand that I do not have a machine shop so this is all being hand made. I have two WEN drill presses, a saber saw, a chop saw, electric hand drill, a Harbor Freight angle grinder, orbital sander and a Dremel type tool with various attachments, and a spectrum of hand tools for metal and woodworking. Also, my "shop" is a glorified garden shed that is 5' by 9' or 45 square feet. 1\4 of that is storage. The cleaner work is being done on the small coffee table in the living room...
There was another problem revealed despite my best eyeball efforts. Many of the holes drilled are not perpendicular to the surface. I built a big monstrosity of a jig which was too cumbersome and impractical to use, when all I needed was a smaller guide arrangement. So I built that to correct the hole problem.
The new plan:
1. Redrill the larger guide holes for the 3rd to 6th magnitude stars so they are perpendicular to the surface. A hassle but doable over a few days.
2. Apply glue so the cinefoil laying over the guide holes is clean. It is easier to poke a hole with a .250 mm bit or a needle. I tested this and by poking the pinholes are the appropriate size. A little variation is okay if not desirable. Need to do some more testing with glues.
The text above is what I posted in the Planetarium Builders and Enthusiasts Group on Facebook
In Retrospect of the post above, the problem that I am having is obviously getting small pinholes consistently (among other errors associated with handmade projects.
I think the thinned JB Kwik is going in the right direction. The problem is applying the epoxy to the cinefoil leaves with thin, even uniformity. So I did I little research into printing and laminating. I think I can use a hard rubber roller called a "Brayer Roller" with a jig. In this way I can set the roller height over the foil so it rolls out the correct thickness every time, rather than trying to spread it with a plastic spackle spreader. I wish I thought of this before...
As it turns out on one starball where the sections have thinner epoxy it's pretty easy to poke a .250mm hole with the bit in a pin vise, or maybe needle ground to the correct thickness. Sewing needles are actually tougher than the bits. At least the ones I have.
I'll post again after more progress.
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Post by Ron Walker on Jun 13, 2022 15:56:02 GMT -7
Posted by: Ron Walker Jul 6 2020, 08:20 AM QUOTE(Philostopher1 @ Jul 6 2020, 01:17 AM) * Project Update July 5th
Pinhole challenges
In my last update I had completed applying the cinefoil to the inside of the starballs. I used JB Kwik thinned with acetone to make a very thin film adhesive to bond the foil to the insides. All along I was concerned that it might peel off over time. That concern was unfounded. I had to grind it off with a stainless braided rope brush...
Why? I was still unable to drill through it with .250 mm bits for the 6th magnitude stars. I could drill maybe 8 holes with my new drill guide before breaking a bit and there is over 1200 ! So that didn't work. There was also a problem in that chucking the bit in the Dremel Hand Piece could not be secured true to the rotational center. In addition to this leading to breakage it was also drilling the holes oversized! Very frustrating.
Those reading this should understand that I do not have a machine shop so this is all being hand made. I have two WEN drill presses, a saber saw, a chop saw, electric hand drill, a Harbor Freight angle grinder, orbital sander and a Dremel type tool with various attachments, and a spectrum of hand tools for metal and woodworking. Also, my "shop" is a glorified garden shed that is 5' by 9' or 45 square feet. 1\4 of that is storage. The cleaner work is being done on the small coffee table in the living room...
There was another problem revealed despite my best eyeball efforts. Many of the holes drilled are not perpendicular to the surface. I built a big monstrosity of a jig which was too cumbersome and impractical to use, when all I needed was a smaller guide arrangement. So I built that to correct the hole problem.
The new plan:
1. Redrill the larger guide holes for the 3rd to 6th magnitude stars so they are perpendicular to the surface. A hassle but doable over a few days.
2. Apply glue so the cinefoil laying over the guide holes is clean. It is easier to poke a hole with a .250 mm bit or a needle. I tested this and by poking the pinholes are the appropriate size. A little variation is okay if not desirable. Need to do some more testing with glues.
The text above is what I posted in the Planetarium Builders and Enthusiasts Group on Facebook
In Retrospect of the post above, the problem that I am having is obviously getting small pinholes consistently (among other errors associated with handmade projects.
I think the thinned JB Kwik is going in the right direction. The problem is applying the epoxy to the cinefoil leaves with thin, even uniformity. So I did I little research into printing and laminating. I think I can use a hard rubber roller called a "Brayer Roller" with a jig. In this way I can set the roller height over the foil so it rolls out the correct thickness every time, rather than trying to spread it with a plastic spackle spreader. I wish I thought of this before...
As it turns out on one starball where the sections have thinner epoxy it's pretty easy to poke a .250mm hole with the bit in a pin vise, or maybe needle ground to the correct thickness. Sewing needles are actually tougher than the bits. At least the ones I have. I'll post again after more progress.
Not to be a nag, but I hope you are documenting all of this with pictures. We all love pictures.
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Post by Ron Walker on Jun 13, 2022 15:56:21 GMT -7
Posted by: moonmagic Jul 6 2020, 03:11 PM QUOTE(Philostopher1 @ Jul 6 2020, 02:17 AM) * Project Update July 5th
Pinhole challenges
In my last update I had completed applying the cinefoil to the inside of the starballs. I used JB Kwik thinned with acetone to make a very thin film adhesive to bond the foil to the insides. All along I was concerned that it might peel off over time. That concern was unfounded. I had to grind it off with a stainless braided rope brush...
Why? I was still unable to drill through it with .250 mm bits for the 6th magnitude stars. I could drill maybe 8 holes with my new drill guide before breaking a bit and there is over 1200 ! So that didn't work. There was also a problem in that chucking the bit in the Dremel Hand Piece could not be secured true to the rotational center. In addition to this leading to breakage it was also drilling the holes oversized! Very frustrating.
Those reading this should understand that I do not have a machine shop so this is all being hand made. I have two WEN drill presses, a saber saw, a chop saw, electric hand drill, a Harbor Freight angle grinder, orbital sander and a Dremel type tool with various attachments, and a spectrum of hand tools for metal and woodworking. Also, my "shop" is a glorified garden shed that is 5' by 9' or 45 square feet. 1\4 of that is storage. The cleaner work is being done on the small coffee table in the living room...
There was another problem revealed despite my best eyeball efforts. Many of the holes drilled are not perpendicular to the surface. I built a big monstrosity of a jig which was too cumbersome and impractical to use, when all I needed was a smaller guide arrangement. So I built that to correct the hole problem.
The new plan:
1. Redrill the larger guide holes for the 3rd to 6th magnitude stars so they are perpendicular to the surface. A hassle but doable over a few days.
2. Apply glue so the cinefoil laying over the guide holes is clean. It is easier to poke a hole with a .250 mm bit or a needle. I tested this and by poking the pinholes are the appropriate size. A little variation is okay if not desirable. Need to do some more testing with glues.
The text above is what I posted in the Planetarium Builders and Enthusiasts Group on Facebook
In Retrospect of the post above, the problem that I am having is obviously getting small pinholes consistently (among other errors associated with handmade projects.
I think the thinned JB Kwik is going in the right direction. The problem is applying the epoxy to the cinefoil leaves with thin, even uniformity. So I did I little research into printing and laminating. I think I can use a hard rubber roller called a "Brayer Roller" with a jig. In this way I can set the roller height over the foil so it rolls out the correct thickness every time, rather than trying to spread it with a plastic spackle spreader. I wish I thought of this before...
As it turns out on one starball where the sections have thinner epoxy it's pretty easy to poke a .250mm hole with the bit in a pin vise, or maybe needle ground to the correct thickness. Sewing needles are actually tougher than the bits. At least the ones I have. I'll post again after more progress. AS USUAL....WOW! I can't begin to imagine the fortitude and drive it takes to do work to this level. I am always just blown away. If I could produce just 1% of work of this level I would feel so accomplished. We all enjoy your updates and pictures. mm
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Post by Ron Walker on Jun 13, 2022 15:56:39 GMT -7
Posted by: Ron Walker Jul 6 2020, 05:47 PM QUOTE(moonmagic @ Jul 6 2020, 03:11 PM) * AS USUAL....WOW! I can't begin to imagine the fortitude and drive it takes to do work to this level. I am always just blown away. If I could produce just 1% of work of this level I would feel so accomplished. We all enjoy your updates and pictures. mm
I agree, I could not imagine trying to build something of this quality level from scratch. I would dissolve into a bunch of nerves.
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Post by Ron Walker on Jun 13, 2022 15:56:57 GMT -7
Posted by: Philostopher1 Jun 5 2021, 11:11 PM Now that I can get back on I'll try to fill in where I am at. The projector is on hold at the moment. Had to grind off all the cinefoil from both hemispheres. In my laziness\enthusiasm and failure to consider details I glued the foil on haphazardly. I just spread the glue with a trowel affair and hoped for the best. Well JB Weld dries pretty hard, and it got on way to think to drill with a .250 mm bit or poke with a needle. I solved the glue distribution problem by making a jig for a Brayer roller so I can only spread 100 microns of JB Kwik thinned with aacetone consistently. I haven't figured out the correct weight of the resin hardener and acetone yet. Early tests prove that I can easily poke .250 mm holes with a needle I turned down on my drill press with a diamond file So here's the cleaned up mess. Here's the jig Attachments:
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Post by Ron Walker on Jun 13, 2022 15:57:12 GMT -7
Posted by: Philostopher1 Jun 5 2021, 11:18 PM Project update June 5 2021 After a year of stagnation and depression suddenly "wheels are turning" again. I have been building the dome finally. I was terrified for three+ years it was going to be a fight, but I got permission. I just worked on the deck\floor today. Things are moving pretty fast now and my inspiration for Projectors has lit up again too. Deck as of today. I have two more rows of joists then the flooring goes on.
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Post by Ron Walker on Jun 13, 2022 15:57:30 GMT -7
Posted by: Ron Walker Jun 6 2021, 11:06 AM Looks like you have some tree trimming in your future.
Why is it that we all wait until wood is at an all time high price to do our projects.
All in all, it is looking very good and very well made. Congrats!!!
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Post by Ron Walker on Jun 13, 2022 15:57:47 GMT -7
Posted by: Philostopher1 Jun 6 2021, 11:11 AM QUOTE(Ron Walker @ Jun 6 2021, 11:06 AM) * Looks like you have some tree trimming in your future.
Why is it that we all wait until wood is at an all time high price to do our projects.
All in all, it is looking very good and very well made. Congrats!!!
True. I am trying to encourage the bamboo to grow around the dome it so it is kind of nestled in bamboo. There is a fig tree that keeps trying to come up in that back left corner. I need to get some stump remover for that. Just the flooring, the PT 2x and 4x costs $1090! When I priced this a few years ago the cost was around $500....
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Post by Ron Walker on Jun 13, 2022 15:58:05 GMT -7
Posted by: Ron Walker Jun 6 2021, 11:12 AM QUOTE(Philostopher1 @ Jun 5 2021, 11:18 PM) * Project update June 5 2021 After a year of stagnation and depression suddenly "wheels are turning" again. I have been building the dome finally. I was terrified for three+ years it was going to be a fight, but I got permission. I just worked on the deck\floor today. Things are moving pretty fast now and my inspiration for Projectors has lit up again too. Deck as of today. I have two more rows of joists then the flooring goes on. I tend to do the same thing in building in my mind problems that just do not ever come to light. So many times I'm my own worst enemy. So good to see you moving along and feeling good about it as well. Keep up the good work! Attachments:
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Post by Ron Walker on Jun 13, 2022 15:58:21 GMT -7
Posted by: Scott T Jun 6 2021, 12:13 PM QUOTE(Philostopher1 @ Jun 6 2021, 07:11 PM) * True. I am trying to encourage the bamboo to grow around the dome it so it is kind of nestled in bamboo. There is a fig tree that keeps trying to come up in that back left corner. I need to get some stump remover for that. Just the flooring, the PT 2x and 4x costs $1090! When I priced this a few years ago the cost was around $500....
Great work- your comment about encouraging bamboo to grow around the dome reminded me of 'ashdome' - a work of art started in 1977 in Wales where an artist has pruned and trained a circle of Ash trees to grow into a dome like arrangement. If you google 'David Nash ash dome' you will get some beautiful pictures. Its location is secret (presumably to protect it) but sadly it is expected to die off as the Ash dieback fungus slowly spreads westward across the uk.
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Post by Ron Walker on Jun 13, 2022 15:58:38 GMT -7
Posted by: charles jones Jun 6 2021, 12:17 PM QUOTE(Philostopher1 @ Jun 6 2021, 11:11 AM) * True. I am trying to encourage the bamboo to grow around the dome it so it is kind of nestled in bamboo. There is a fig tree that keeps trying to come up in that back left corner. I need to get some stump remover for that. Just the flooring, the PT 2x and 4x costs $1090! When I priced this a few years ago the cost was around $500....
James, the cost of building materials, especially lumber and plywood has just about doubled in cost in the past 6 months. Nobody seems to have the correct answer why. We have some start up housing projects in our neighborhood that have been put on hold until lumber costs go down. I know you ordered pvc pipe for the dome. Are you planning on covering it with fabric?
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Post by Ron Walker on Jun 13, 2022 15:58:56 GMT -7
Posted by: Ron Walker Jun 6 2021, 12:35 PM QUOTE(Philostopher1 @ Jun 6 2021, 11:11 AM) * True. I am trying to encourage the bamboo to grow around the dome it so it is kind of nestled in bamboo. There is a fig tree that keeps trying to come up in that back left corner. I need to get some stump remover for that. Just the flooring, the PT 2x and 4x costs $1090! When I priced this a few years ago the cost was around $500....
Keep an eye on how close your bamboo grows. I had some close trees and after a good wind storm found the tree branches wore a hole in the wood of a building.
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